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The Olfactory Pyramid
"Volatility" is the rate at which essential oils evaporate once they are applied or exposed to air.
Historical Notes
In the 19th century, French perfumer Septimus Piesse applied the concept of a musical scale to perfumery, classifying each scent based on the notes of a scale. For Piesse, each scent corresponded to a semitone.
From this early attempt to apply musical principles to perfumery, the concept of "perfume notes" has endured: top notes, middle or heart notes, and base notes.
This classification considers the volatility of the essential oil, its characteristics and properties, and is instrumental in formulating a balanced perfume.
High notes or head voice
This category includes the most light and volatile essential oils.
They are usually the freshest and sharpest, the first to be appreciated. The top note is indeed defined as "the flight of the perfume". Top essential oils are those that act most quickly on a psychological level and are usually energizing, stimulating, and dynamic. If you want to change a mental state or thought very quickly, it is recommended to use an essential oil belonging to this category.
Some examples of top notes: Lemon, Mandarin, Orange, Bergamot, Litsea, Eucalyptus, Grapefruit, Lemongrass.
Average or heart notes
Middle notes are the heart of a perfume: moderately long-lasting, they are enveloping and floral, full, and sensual. These oils act on the chest and are often related to various body organs, helping to rebalance them. From a psychic point of view, they act on an emotional and sentimental level, also awakening forgotten sensations.
Some examples of heart notes: Ylang ylang, Clove, Fennel, Lavender, Geranium, Chamomile, Jasmine, Rose.
Bass notes or fundamental notes
They emerge more slowly than others but stay with us longer: they are the soul of the perfume. With a rich, deep, spicy, intense aroma. Base oils are often used to fix other more volatile oils, stabilizing them. Their scent is perceived through the lower part of the body, with often relaxing and sedative properties.
Some examples of base notes: Cedarwood, Frankincense, Myrrh, Vetiver, Patchouli, Benzoin, Sandalwood.
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